Showing posts with label Agujitas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Agujitas. Show all posts

Sunday, September 20, 2015

Turn The Page

Once upon a time, in the quaint village of Agujitas, there was a traveling duo living the Costa Rican dream. In the early hours of Wednesday, the warm rays of the sunrise shone in through their transparent curtains, waking the boy and girl from sleep. Little did they know that as the days ensued, so would this pattern of early morning wake up calls for their week long stay in Agujitas. This morning in particular was spent like most; reclined in the adirondack chairs on their deck overlooking Drake Bay, book in hand, occasionally glancing up to observe the loud but beautiful scarlet macaws. These birds seemed to live in the tallest trees and feed off the walnuts (appropriately named beach walnuts). They were often seen dangling by their claws from the branches, fighting off other macaws that desired the same branch. It provided great entertainment for the travelers, many mornings and afternoons.

That Wednesday afternoon, the boy and girl threw on their swimsuits and walked along the coast, heading west towards Playa Cocalito. Forty minutes later, they arrived to the small beach, bordered by rocks on each side. Mostly deserted with only one other couple to be seen, an hour was spent joyously playing in the waves on the few sandy spots that could be found under the water. To the west of the beach was another tree filled with macaws that made lying in the sand and playing hangman even more enjoyable.

                   Crossing Río Agujas
                                                       Playa Cocalito

The hike back required precise attention to the signs directing one to walk down the hill on the broken tile pieces instead of following the perfect looking trail straight ahead. Upon arriving back to town, the two stopped for a late lunch at a restaurant on the bay and the boy happily ordered salchipapas. He had seen these on a menu at a different restaurant earlier, and had been craving sliced up hot dogs over french fries topped with copious amounts of mayonnaise and ketchup ever since. 

This Wednesday was a special day; the young girl wasn't so young anymore, as this day marked 32 years since the world had first met her. The sneaky, charming boy was aware of this and he made a scrumptious Asian rice dish for dinner that evening. He had also slyly purchased a box of wine, chocolate cake mix and ice cream from the store (he sure knows his traveling companion well). Realizing that the oven was filled with spiders and wouldn't turn on, there was a moment of despair followed by Google searching for how to bake a cake without an oven. Google provided such complex answers as "place large pan on stove top with rack inside, then place smaller pan containing cake inside larger pan," but the girl sadly discovered the kitchen was definitely not equipped for this. Then, the boy had an idea: "I'll make pancakes with the mix instead!" he exclaimed. And he did. And together, the two ate one-third of the cake, smothered in ice cream and bananas. And it was so good, the two vowed to never go to the trouble of baking a cake in the oven again.

                        Better than cake pancakes with vanilla ice cream and bananas

Fighting a cake induced coma, Thursday the two could be found either on their deck or in the kitchen. There were high hopes of spotting whales or dolphins from their deck, but this never happened. Neither were disappointed though, as the macaws and other bird sightings kept them distracted. The boy continued reading The Old Patagonian Express, a book that was written by a young man traveling by train through Central America in the 1970s. The girl fought to enjoy the classic book, Frankenstein. Lunch was quite the ordeal for these two, as they made chicken burritos with enough to pack up for some lofty plans the following day. Dinner was leftover Asian chicken rice, and another third of the birthday cake.

Parque Nacional Corcovado is the draw for many travelers to the area of Agujitas, where tours are often based out of. This park has an amazing amount of biodiversity and is considered the last great original tract of tropical rainforest in Pacific Central America. Researching ways to explore this vast area but attempting to avoid paying for guides or entrances fees, the boy discovered a hike on the perimeter of the park that would pass multiple beaches. Again donning swimsuits, packing a bag with burritos and snorkel gear, and lacing up their hiking boots, the duo headed out on Friday morning. Out the door after splitting a burrito and an unfortunate plantain that was disguised as a banana for breakfast, the two set out on the same path they had done the previous Wednesday to Playa Cocalito. They passed the familiar beach, and continued walking for another two hours into the rainforest.

The trail was mostly flat, and hugged the coastline nearly the entire path. As they trudged along, the wildlife they were exposed to became more diverse and awe-inspiring. There were countless scarlet macaws (this area is home to the largest population) encouraging the travelers eyes to stay on the thick forested branches above, which allowed them to spot the toucan. The bright yellow chest and beak gave him away, and the girl was able to tip toe closer for some photo ops. While doing so, another five or more were noted in neighboring trees.

         The smoother part of the 2.5 hour hike
                              One of many toucans quietly hiding in the trees

During the hike, spider monkeys occasionally leapt from branch to branch overhead and howlers could be heard in the distance. As the boy and girl neared their destination beach, Playa Josecito, a new monkey was spotted: the white faced capuchin. This monkey had been observed at their previous stop in Manuel Antonio, but not as clearly or close up as it was in this forest. Actually, it was a bit closer than either was comfortable with. The monkey, known for taking people's belongings, was not shy in closing the distance between human and monkey. When the hikers finally reached their beach and started picnicking on their burritos, a capuchin climbed down a branch just over their belongings and they had to move their packs and yell at the monkey.

              Spider monkeys everywhere
                  I named this one Marcelle 

With bags securely attached to a tree and bellies full of burritos, the two were ready to jump in the clear Pacific water for some snorkeling but first had to wait out the storm that began when they arrived. Realizing it made no difference if they were wet on the beach or in the water, they jumped in and let the rain fall. Once clear skies returned, snorkel gear was brought out and they attempted snorkeling around the rocks near the shore and a small island 40 meters off the coast. The waters boasted more abundant coral and fish than they'd seen in months, but both agreed nothing compares to the Caribbean.

                                                     Playa Josecito

Around 2:30pm, the boy recommended they begin to head back to reach their bungalow before dark. Hiking boots were put back on and the walk out began, but with a new companion. A friendly white dog, given the name Josecito, was guarding their bags from the monkeys when the two returned from snorkeling. He was given water as a thank you and in return, he walked the travelers halfway home before happily finding a new beach to play at.

                                            Boy, girl, Josecito the dog

Once home and cleaned up, the duo retreated to the kitchen for another meal. They were quite proud of themselves, shopping for five days worth of food and devising meals that were unique but used similar ingredients. This night, they feasted on bacon, cheese, refried bean and tomato omelettes. And the remaining third of the cake mix in pancake form.

Saturday was another day of rest for the two; books on the deck, research and discussions regarding their next stop. They made an outing for lunch and stopped at the grocery store to purchase a few more products to help use all the leftovers. With a deck and ample room to hang a shoe string, laundry was done in the afternoon. The boy did his first, using a large garbage bag to fill with hot (first time handwashing clothes in hot water!) soapy water. He threw his clothes in, let them soak, then replaced the bag with fresh water before tossing them around for the "agitate" portion of the cycle. The clothes were then rinsed, rung dry and hung. Next was the girls turn; she did nearly the same process, but received a blister from aggressively ringing out her clothes and is not confident they smell any better.

                                         Making good use of the deck

That evening, another rice and chicken dish was made but with a jalapeño cream sauce that made it taste completely different from the first dish with practically the same ingredients. Dishes were washed and the two returned to their room to find a cockroach hiding by the bed. The girl found a broom and the boy managed to sweep it out, after it eluded capture multiple times.

Sunday, (today) the two made the most of their last day on Drake Bay. Quesadillas were made for brunch, a resourceful way to use the tortillas and sour cream left over from previous meals. The deck was used for more reading, clothes drying and a perfect viewing of a lightening storm. There was an afternoon stroll along the beach, cut short by a few raindrops. The room was paid for and tickets purchased for the 7:15 boat the next morning, after discovering that the bus was very temperamental based on rain and picked up at 4am. Dinner was the leftover chicken and rice from the previous night, leaving them with two pounds of uncooked rice as the only ingredient they couldn't finish off. It will be packed and carried.

                        A macaw in the trees just behind Cabinas Murillo
                           View of the bay and a storm rolling in from the right

In the next part of their adventure, the two hope to cross the border and arrive in David by late afternoon the following day. They both look forward to the conveniences that a big city has to offer after their recent stays in small towns. And of course, experiencing the last country of their year long journey, Panama.


-J2




Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Cash Rules Everything Around Me

We have hit the main tourist attractions and now understand why people say that Costa Rica is expensive. Our budget has spiked a little the past week. The first 10 days here we averaged around $50/day, with lazy days on the beach and a good amount of cooking for ourselves. The last 7 days we are spending close to $83/day, with National Park entry fees and a couple of boats rides. But I am not complaining, the parks have been spectacular and we have seen some amazing things. I will describe some of those things below and let you see that it is money well spent.

Julia's last correspondence put us in the town of Quepos, near Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. The most real Costa Rican town we have been in, we enjoyed the multiple cheap food options and seeing people doing jobs not related to tourism. On Thursday morning, after dropping off our laundry, we caught the bus out to Manuel Antonio and paid $16/person to enter one of the most popular parks in the country. Luckily we are here in the slow season so the tiny protected coastal forest wasn't completely packed with people and we were often on trails by ourselves. The views from the lookouts were decent, but the main reason people flock here is to see the wildlife and the beaches. About 5 minutes in, we see a guided group looking up into the trees and spot a tucan. Five minutes further down the trail, another guide is setting up his telescope and saying the magical word "sloth". We slide on over and spot the unusual animal lounging in a tree, not doing much. We had really been hoping to see one of these 2 or 3 toed sloths and just a little later spotted another one even closer and even more lazy. Apparently they only come down from the trees once a week to use the bathroom and can lay around all day because their body digests food very slowly. 

                        Tough to see sloth
                    Looking for more animals

Other creatures around the park are white-faced capuchin monkeys, howler monkeys, some rodent thing, and raccoons that steal food from absent minded beach loungers. It was amusing to watch the pack of animals work their way down the beach, checking out each unattended bag, and people running in from the water to throw sand at them. The frustrating part is that everyone is warned about this when they enter the park and how bad the human food is for the animals, but still they casually leave sandwiches and chips out in the open for raccoons to grab. 

The beaches are on both sides of the rocky jungle filled penninsula called Punta Catedral. We hiked around it for good views and had to find a way over a large tree that had fallen straight down the path and onto a bridge during a storm the night before. After working up an appetite, Julia made ham and avocado wraps while I scared off raccoons with a stick. We relaxed and played on the most idyllic beach, Playa Manuel Antonio, with soft sand and lined with palm trees. 

                                                    Playa Manuel Antonio
                                                 Defending our bag of food 

When we got back to our hotel, we felt tired from all the walking and realized that we had woken up to the alarm for 6 days in a row. That frightened us a little and had us questioning our lifestyle choices. We needed a rest day and thus decided to kill another 24hrs in Quepos. Friday; we walked around town and ate lunch in the market, ducked into the casino and joined some locals in throwing some money into the slot machines, talked with a gringo who owns a bookstore and felt bad for not buying anything from him, studied our guidebook to determine our next destination, and had dinner at our favorite kitchen that does interesting side salads (pasta salad the 1st visit, beet salad the 2nd). 

Saturday was a short travel day. Busing south along the coast for just under 2hrs took us to the small town of Uvita. A few groups of businesses along the highway surrounded by farm houses is the town center. We were dropped off there but couldn't find any lodgings that we liked. So we made the 2km walk down dirt roads toward the ocean, in hopes of finding a better selection. We came upon another small village which I think is technically called Bahía, and a big sign pointed to multiple cabanas and lodges down another dirt road. So we walked another kilometer in the midday sun before finding some places to checkout. Cabinas Bambu looked like the cheapest and was just 150 meters from the beach. We booked 2 nights at 14,000 colones/night ($26), dropped our bags, and set out to find food. 

The main reason we came here is because the coastline is protected as Parque Nacional Marino Ballena, and is a prime spot to see migrating humpback whales. Our timing was perfect since the first 3 weekends of September they have whale festivals and locals descend upon his tiny area in hordes. We strolled the beautiful beach before walking the one road through town and seeing all restaurants packed with people. We spotted a couple waiting at the bus stop whom we had met previously in Monteverde. They had done a whale watching tour that morning and told of a giant humpback rising out of the water in front of their boat that splashed down, soaking everyone onboard. They loved it and we were sold on doing it the next day. 

After saying goodbye to our travel friends, we continued to strikeout on food options so decided to buy 2 days worth of groceries. We expanded our food variety this time and for dinner ate well made omelettes and chicken patty sandwiches. We also enjoyed the local feel of our cabinas, with the constant noise of drinking and laughing old men who seemed to be part of a tour group. 

Sunday was an early wake up but for a good reason, we wanted to get on one of the first tours. We packed a lunch and snorkel gear (not for the whales) and after paying 20,000 colones/person ($37.50) for the tour and $6/person to enter the marine park, we were on a boat by 8am. The beach was already packed with people as all the tour operators were working together and offering discounted (probably shorter) whale watching tours for the festival weekends.

Our tour started out fairly slow. We saw boats gathered and could spot the whales from a distance, but they have rules that only 3 boats can be around a whale at a time and they must keep a distance of at least 50 meters from the large mammals. Smooth black backs could be seen rising out of the water and the occasional spout of water rose into the air. I rapidly snapped pictures, not knowing if the view would get any better. 
                                             The back of a humpback whale

We got very close to a mother & baby and could see how gigantic they were. They arched their backs and dove down for a few seconds. Then we saw the baby rise up out of the water, almost fully exposed. I had my camera on the sequential function and held down the trigger. The baby splashed down and immediately to the right, the much larger momma rose up twisting into the air. It was an amazing sight. You hear everyone on the boat gasp and hold their breath, for a brief moment all is silent. Then the thunderous pounding splash as the whale returns to the water. We all breath again and cheer. I kept my finger pressed down and panned over just in time to catch a few good shots. 

                                                                 The baby
                                                         The momma
                                                          Very acrobatic
                                                    The splash down
                                                        The proverbial selfie    
   
The pair of whales continued this pattern for 2 more jumps as they ventured off away from us. We were all a little giddy at this point and shortly after, the guide said we wouldn't see anything better and told us we were going to head back. Normally we would be upset if they cut a $37 tour short because they had other groups waiting, but we had seen what we wanted and I guess it is always good to leave on a high note. 

Back on shore, we were free to explore the beaches of the marine park and try to get our $6 worth. They were some of the prettiest we have seen, when you got away from all of the people. Palm trees leaned at gravity defying angles over the water and the sand was a nice golden brown. At low tide, we were able to walk out onto Punta Uvita which is shaped like a whales tail. A sand bridge connects the rocky reef to the shore and we did a little snorkeling. As the tide comes back in, waves converge from both sides and the crowd of people walk back to the shore in knee high water. We found a shady spot under the trees and ate tuna salad out of a zip-lock bag, watching a gringo couple do numerous awkward yoga poses under a palm tree while their camera on a tri-pod snapped away. As I was walking back into the water, I spotted a small sting-ray and determined that it was time to explore the other parts of the park. 

                                  Playa Bahía Uvita as it heads toward Punta Uvita
                          The view from the whale tail looking back toward the beach.
               The walk back to our cabinas 

We enjoyed a lazy rest of the day. For dinner we ate a mixture of carrots, onions, breaded chicken patties, an instant ramen noodle bowl, and some sauce out of the fridge that looked good. With a side of toast, it actually turned out to be a tasty meal. 

Monday was another travel day. Our goal was the town of Agujitas on Bahía Drake (or Drake Bay).  The town sits on the border of Parque Nacional Corcovado, labeled the most biologically intense place on the planet, the plan is to get a taste of the intensity without having to pay for a guided tour or camping gear. We had been researching the cheapest way to get there for a couple days and figured the buses weren't running in the rainy season, thus settled on the more standard route. 

We waited an hour in Uvita for a bus that would take us to Palmar, about an hour south. There, we ate lunch and waited another 1.5 hrs for the bus to take us down the road to Sierpe. I was nervous at this point but the delays didn't hurt us and we made it to the boat dock about 15 minutes before departure. We saw the small boat pull up and looked around at the 28 people who seemed to be waiting to get on, wondering how this would work. We positioned ourselves near the front and got seats and somehow everyone made it onboard (with 1 guy sitting on the front holding a rope). The success was short lived though, as the captain shut the motor off about 10 minutes down river and called a friend to help lighten the load. Twenty minutes later, another boat comes flying down river and 8 of us were selected to get in the new boat, oddly 6 of us were backpackers and the other 2 seemed like a Tico/Gringa couple with a baby. We worried a little about leaving our packs stashed on the other boat, but just had to relax and enjoy the ride. It was a fun ride, winding down the brown slow moving river before coming out into the turquoise Drake Bay as the sun was going down. About an hour later we hoped off in Agujitas as darkness settled in. 

                                               Transferring some of the weight
                        Keeping a close eye on our luggage as we cross the bay

We walked up the dirt road and quickly found Cabinas Murillo. Our goal was to find a spot with a view of the bay where would could relax for a week or more. Well, we knew as soon as we saw it that this was the spot. For $30 a night, we have a private room with 2 chairs on a back deck and sweeping water views. That night we found reasonably priced meals and watched a small parade in preparation for Costa Rican Independence Day on September 15 (today). 

Waking up today (Tuesday), we felt that great feeling of nothing to do. We sat out on our deck and watched as a flock of scarlet macaws flew over and landed in some trees not far away. They sqauked for an hour before flying around some more. I will go on the record as saying they are the coolest birds I have seen in the wild. The bright colorful red, yellow, and blue feathers contrast so well with everything else around that they seem cartoon like. You should look them up on the internet because our pictures don't show it. We also had a prime viewing spot for the kid's parade that rolled up and down the main dirt road right below us, complete with marching band and batton twirlers. Everyone wearing their national red, white, and blue colors, it was very much like something you would see in the states.  

                                       Enjoying the view from our back deck
                   Independence Day parade

Now that we have spent $45 on groceries, the plan is to cook most of our meals and do the occasional hike along the coast. The beaches are supposed to be nice with animal filled jungle right up to the water. This should help bring some of the costs down before we leave Costa Rica via it's southern exit and enter Panama. Until then we have some celebrating to do tomorrow for Julia's Cumpleaños, some books to read, and a big body of water to stare at.