Thursday, December 10, 2015

All Good Things Come to an End

We have landed on U.S. soil. As our departure date neared closer, we both found ourselves in a perfect state of contentment; sad to say goodbye but anxious to return to those we missed. It's hard to know whether these well balanced feelings were a result of the mental preparation that after 11 months of backpacking, our trip would be complete, or simply that the timing was perfect. Either way, we were both pleased that we simply felt ready. Micah's last blog took you through Sunday, which left us two days to soak up all the sun and Nica family that we could.

After Micah golfed 27 holes the previous day, we still had a pass with 5 rounds of 9 holes, challenging us to use them before we left. On Monday, I only managed 9 and Micah played a full 18. My game started well and by the end of the second hole, I was feeling pretty confident with how much I've improved this year. Then the next seven holes put me back in my place and although I did grow as a golfer this year, I remembered that I have a long ways to go. 

We ate a quick lunch before taking advantage of our last dip in the infinity pool, last sunset over the Pacific shores of Nicaragua, and last happy hour drinks. Angie and Kaiden joined us for a swim before heading home to make chicken enchiladas. Dinner was served and then packing began. The tricky tasks of wrapping bottles of rum in clothes, disguising cigars, and cushioning breakables was refined over the next few days as we continued to add items to our luggage and guesstimate the weight of our check-in bags.

Tuesday morning, Angie surprised me with a massage appointment at the resort. They have a masseuse on property with the perfect set-up: a massage table in a small palapa, opened towards the ocean. After my hour of relaxation, Micah and I confiscated Kaiden for our last beach adventure. We jumped in the waves, sat on the pieces of driftwood while imagining they were horses, and collected seashells. Our ulterior motive was to increase the bronze of our skin so as to look like we've spent the past year living on the beaches of Central America.

                                               On a seashell scavenger hunt

We did our best to keep Kaiden awake for the afternoon, intermittently as we completed packing. Angie was able to leave work early so around 2:30, the adults were ready to head in to Managua in preparation for the early morning departure time the following day. We hugged and kissed Kaiden, promised to FaceTime often and visit again soon, meanwhile he picked his nose and wiped his boogars on us. 

               This is how he combs my hair

On our way to Managua, we had a detour at a local orphanage. A surfer who Angie knows through Gran Pacifica works there and offered to show us around. It was an uplifting experience, as my expectations were pretty low, never having visited an orphanage even in a developed country, let alone Nicaragua. The location of The Children of Destiny orphanage was beautiful, set on 50+ acres, half of which was undeveloped and the remaining land housed open fields for soccer, fruit trees, and tire swings. The only children we had a short interaction with were two infants, two months old each. The other children were playing among the trees when we drove up to the orphanage. This place is currently home to 19 children, nearly all under the age of 5. Most are taken out of abusive environments or are abandoned. We were told the children are placed relatively quickly, either with family members or adopted. The orphanage is run solely on donations and fundraising by a gal that owns it; it was a quick and powerful reminder of how much difference one person could make to many.

There was a last minute souvenir trip to the market before we found a hotel in Managua. The four of us wandered down the road to a Mexican restaurant for dinner and then unsuccessfully went in search of Churros, an appropriate dessert for our last night in Central America. We settled on banana splits, and then stopped in at a pharmacy on the walk home to pick up a two week supply of antibiotics (for $3.72), although we sincerely hope nothing will spring up once home to necessitate use of antibiotics. 

With a departure time of 8:40am, we arrived to the small, disorganized airport at 7am on Wednesday. We checked in one bag each, proudly weighing in at 49# and 46#. Hugs and a few tears later, we were through security and shortly after, aboard our plane. Our long travel day went smoothly, with a 4 hour layover in Atlanta and a rushed 50 minute layover in Seattle. Immigrations and Customs didn't even glance at Micah's Cuba stamps and weren't concerned that I had cigars in my suitcase (maybe because I fibbed and said they were from Nicaragua, so he didn't bother to look at them).

     Being American: drinking beer while eating a $12 hamburger and watching sports
                                                         Had to.

We were greeted at the Portland airport by Mark, Lucas, Tarah and chilly weather. Wrapped in our Mexican shawl and poncho, we collected our luggage and drove back to Papa Hoelter's. I wondered on the plane if I would feel claustrophobic amidst buildings more than two stories tall, or disheartened by all the consumerism around. I've had neither of these experiences yet, but as we drove home last night, there was a pleasant mix of awareness of the physical changes in Portland that had occurred in the past year, as if we'd been gone a long time, and the feeling that we never left.

Over the next few days and few weeks, our schedule feels full. We have Christmas parties, family get-togethers and birthday parties to attend. I have part time work lined up in Vancouver and Forest Grove for five weeks, beginning in one week. After that, we are unsure, although we have our hopes set on traveling the US for a bit while making a paycheck. Those plans will be finalized in time, and the thought of it makes me feel more comfortable with the idea of returning to a structured life, with a schedule and responsibilities. 

For now, we have a few things to do to return to normalcy, such as become owners of cell phones, pick up my car, etc. I look forward to figuring out what normalcy is over the next while. I continually asked Micah while we were traveling what changes stuck once he returned from his previous long backpacking trip: if it was difficult to spend $10 for a meal after spending $3 for the past year; if it was difficult to become so much more accessible to others because of cell phones and Internet; if it was as difficult to wake up to an alarm as I imagine it will be. Over the past 24 hours I've had to remind myself numerous times that it's safe to drink the water from the tap now and that it's ok to throw the toilet paper in the toilet.

Although I'm unsure when or how often, we will continue to post to this blog. We have a lot of pride in our little excel program that shows every penny we spent over the past 11 months, so that financial breakdown will result in a post in the next week or two. At times exhausting and overwhelming to write a blog, I'm thankful that we have a play-by-play to remind us of all the amazing experiences we had this year, and I'm grateful to our friends and family who have faithfully followed along.



Sunday, December 6, 2015

Eight Days A Week

This has been one of the toughest blog posts to write. With just a few days left of what has been an 11 month journey, I don't feel very motivated. With that said, I will apologize in advance for the lazy tone of this entry. 

On Sunday we got a ride up north to León with Angie and ate chicken shawarma for lunch. We waited an hour at a hardware store for paint to be mixed and I contemplated buying a machete. My father and I were dropped at Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Guardián which was unfortunately closed for renovations. From there we walked around the city center while the girls did girl things. We checked out the large and impressive central cathedral as well as a few of the other beautiful churches. That night we watched the Portland Timbers advance to the MLS championship game and gave my Dad one last taste of typical Nicaraguan food at one of León's popular outdoor street grills. 

                 Inside Iglesia de la Merced
                  Street grill behind cathedral 

We woke up early on Monday with the goal of climbing to the top of the central cathedral for spectacular views of the city and the surrounding volcanoes. The bonus would have been seeing the Telica Volcano which recently erupted and is now covered in light gray ash. We were unlucky again, as the cathedral staircase was not open at 8am like we had hoped and with my Father needing to catch a 9am airport shuttle, we strolled back to the hotel. The van arrived ontime and we said our goodbyes which were easy since we will see each other again in 10 days. 

Despite the closures in León, I think the past 2 weeks couldn't have gone better. It was a good mix of backpacking and resort life. We showed my Dad some of the culture with chicken bus rides and local food, then did the relaxing golf and poolside happy hour. Definitley glad he came down. 

For the rest of Monday we got back to our backpacker roots. After some bargain shopping in the markets and thrift stores, we ate lunch at a bus terminal kitchen and caught a bus to the junction town of Los Cedros. There, we waited an hour on the side of the road for another bus to take us down to km 49 and the beginning of the 11km dirt road to Gran Pacifica. When this 2nd bus dropped us off, we stood on the side of the road and stuck out our thumbs. All of our previous hitchhiking attempts have been successful and we were hoping for our last attempt to work just as well. After 20 minutes of no vehicles, a lady driving a work truck rolled by us, waving us off and apparently saying that she was stopping shortly. Then she stopped and backed up to us. We said "Gran Pacifica" and she said that she was stopping at her house for about 15 minutes before continuing on to our destination, if we didn't mind waiting. Of course we didn't mind, and soon found out that she was the mother-in-law of Big Bob (owner of Burrito Bandidos) and she knows Angela well. She must have recognized Julia and that is why she stopped. After helping her unload some food at her house, we hopped in the bed of the truck and soon arrived back at our temporary home where we were greeted by Kaiden running toward us. 

                 Another successful hitchhiking 

The next few days are a little easier to describe as we began the big project of painting the outside of the house. 

Tuesday: Pressure washing and cleaning.

Wednesday: Prepped and painted. Saw smoke rising in the distance from the eruption of Momotombo Volcano. It had been 110 years since it's last eruption and we watched the local news showing it spew lava into the night.

Thursday: Prepped and painted some more.

Friday: Prepped and finished painting the main walls of the house for half the day, then attempted to snorkel before spending the final few hours of sunlight by the resort pool.

                            How we paint

Saturday: We painted the windowsills and bases of the pillars for one last day of brush strokes and balancing on ladders. Just as we finished, some friends of Angie and Osman's came over for a BBQ and kids playing in the pool. We feasted and drank, enjoying the perfect night weather and a colorful sunset. Since it is less than 3 weeks until Christmas (although it doesn't feel like it down here) I was asked to don a Santa suit and give the kids some holiday cheer. It was my first time playing the jolly fat man, but 2 of the 3 kids were convinced I was the real thing. 

                        Kaiden and Santa

Now it is Sunday again and I have to say today was a good day. The girls again headed out for a day on the town doing girl things in Managua. I took the opportunity to play as much golf as I could, which happens to currently be 27 holes in this heat. I played well, enjoyed myself and got back home in time to cleanup and make some ramen for lunch. Then joyfully watched the Portland Timbers win the MLS Championship while typing these words onto my iPad. 

This will be my last post from overseas. We do plan on keeping this site updated as we arrive back home and pursue temporary job opportunities around the US in 2016. We will also post some recaps and top-10 lists from our year in Central America. But first, we have to finish this trip and get back home. Check back in a few days for Julia's post on the dramatic conclusion. 


Saturday, November 28, 2015

Give Thanks

The past six days have allowed us three weary travelers all the amenities you would expect while living at a luxurious resort. There have been Nica Libres (rum & Coke) consumed, multiple afternoons playing golf in the sun, and sunsets by the infinity pool. Our recap of the week begins on Sunday, our last day with heavy backpacks, in Masaya.

Sunday: Despite hundreds of stands at Masaya's Artisan market all selling similar pottery, shirts and knick knacks, very few were open by 9am. With plans to purchase our remaining souvenirs this morning, we made one local vendor very happy that his doors were open when we passed through. Multiple negotiations later, all parties walked away pleased, one party with a few large plastic bags in tow. On our way back to the hotel, we found ourselves surrounded by costumed locals and a band making their way to the main church. We followed, and helped form a circle surrounding those dancing in masks and elaborate dress. Once Angie and Kaiden arrived, we tried to find the parade for Kaiden to enjoy but they had already moved on, so we sat court-side and enjoyed a local soccer game instead. Backpacks and shopping bags thrown in the car, we drove 30 minutes south to San Juan de Oriente and Catarina for a view of Laguna de Apoyo and lunch. A quick stop in Managua for groceries and by 6pm, we were home at Gran Pacifica. Mark settled in to the empty house next door where he's renting a room for the week, Micah and I found the items we left behind. A salad, chorizo sausage and gallo pinto was consumed for dinner and families caught up on the last few months.

                                             Costumes and masks everywhere
                   More traditional wear
                                     View of Laguna de Apoyo from Catarina

Monday: Clothes were placed in a washing machine and hung on a line and backpacks were scrubbed free of dirt. Micah and Mark hit the golf course for 9 holes that afternoon and I played with my favorite 2 year old. The four of us reconvened and spent the next few hours testing the happy hour drinks and the infinity pool at the restaurant.

Tuesday: Souvenirs were picked through and more cleaning and organizing. The daily ritual of internet time by the office and pool had already begun and was continued. Mark, Micah, Kaiden and I borrowed the Explorer and took to the muddy dirt road that eventually ended at Asuchillo Beach. A long, flat beach that has a gentle wave break, it's the best beach in Gran Pacifica for non hardcore surfers and those who just want to frolick in the water. We frolicked and roasted in the harsh sun for an hour and a half in the late afternoon. That evening, all 6 of us packed into the car and drove the 11km road to Burrito Bandido where two pizzas and multiple drinks were split.

           Laughing at each wave that hit him
                                                    Asuchillo Beach

Wednesday: Angie and Osman ran errands in Managua for the day. Micah and Mark spent another 9 holes on the golf course, I had a relaxed morning at the house. After another afternoon with Kaiden at the resort's pool, we feasted on typical Nica food that Angie and Osman brought home with them.

                         Pool with the restaurant and Mark in background

Thursday: For Thanskgiving, there was a lot of interesting conversation regarding how we would celebrate. Weeks earlier, Micah and I offered to cook and host our family and Angie's boss, at our home. That was tweaked slightly by my well intentioned sister and we were declared head chefs for the day at the restaurant to cook a traditional Thanksgiving meal for 20-50 people. We laughed and declined, but in the end we realized the Nicaraguans and Canadians had no idea how to make an American Thanksgiving dinner, so we offered to cook the turkey, stuffing, and gravy. An approximate 20 people would be attending, so 27# of turkey was purchased along with a few dozen other items we'd compiled into a grocery list the day before. By 11am, we had taken over one large kitchen in an open condo unit to begin our work. Micah prepped the turkey and made bread crumbs for stuffing, I chopped veggies and herbs to stuff the turkey, and Mark took on the brave and tedious task of cutting 10+ onions. Seven hours and four ovens later, we had two beautifully roasted turkeys, a few pounds of chorizo sausage stuffing, and a very large pot of gravy. The restaurant transferred the food to serving platters and placed everything, including the potatoes, corn, salad and rolls that they had made, on a buffet table in the restaurant. There was also cranberry/blueberry sauce and green bean casserole with hand battered onion rings on top that were made by friends in the condo with us. The meal was a great success with nearly 20 people joining us, including family members of Daniel Ortega, current president of Nicaragua. We stuffed our bellies, went back for seconds, topped it off with pumpkin pie and were able to FaceTime with family. A wonderful and memorable Thanksgiving to go in the books.


Micah and Kaiden fixing the training wheels on his bike after Kaiden's mommy ran over the wheel with the car :)

                                       Where the magic took place

                           Finished product with the professional turkey carver

             Celebrating Thanksgiving, Nicaragua style (Nica Libre and Premium beer)

Friday: Despite a tryptophan induced sleep the previous night, Micah and Mark mustered up the energy for 18 holes of golf on Friday morning. I swam with Kaiden in the pool at the house, and lulled him to sleep for his afternoon nap. We gave Angie some time to plant in her garden by taking Kaiden down to the resort pool for the sunset. Once we returned home, Angie and I collected as many empty Tupperware containers as we could find and ran back down to the restaurant, requesting Thanskgiving leftovers. Day two's meal may have been better than day one, and we even had an entire pumpkin pie to complete our leftovers.

           Where'd the cranberry sauce go??

Saturday: Today I joined Mark and Micah for 9 of the 18 holes they golfed. When I returned to the house, Kaiden immediately asked if Mark and Micah were still golfing and insisted on joining. For the second day in a row, Kaiden and I went in search of the golfers and he swung away a few times, surprisingly making contact more often than not. Lunch was rice, beans, and ceviche that Osman made with a barracuda that a friend caught while fishing yesterday. We enjoyed Mark's last Gran Pacifica sunset down by the pool, then ate pork ribs for dinner that Micah had slow cooked in the crock pot for the past 20 hours.

                          Admiring the Pacific from the green of the fourth hole

Tomorrow: One more day on the road for all of us. We will head to León, likely with Angie, to show Mark a few more cathedrals, museums and markets. On Monday, he will head to Managua to catch his afternoon flight back to the states and we will gather the last of our necessities from the markets in León before we return via chicken bus to the resort for our last full week of our year long vacation.

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Family Affair

My father arrived safely last Sunday in San Carlos and we have been rolling ever since. A lot has been seen and done, so I will not waste anymore time and get right to the details. 

Sunday: After eating lunch at one of the small kitchens by the bus terminal, we hopped in a cab for the short trip to the airport, only to learn that the flight wasn't due in for another 80 minutes. The aiprort was just one room staffed by 2 men, with a small unguarded landing strip. The tiny 12-seater plane landed quietly and my dad jumped out with his tidy new REI backpack that felt as light as a feather. Fully embracing the backpacker lifestyle, he ignored the heat and suggested we walk the 3.5 kms to our hotel back in town.
                                                        The plane arrives 
                                                         Walking into town

San Carlos is a nice little town at the SE corner of Lake Nicaragua, where water begins the journey down Río San Juan on its way to the Caribbean. A junction town near the Costa Rican border that has locals coming and going in all directions and by all means of transportation. Just enough tourists that there are good hotels and restaurants, but not too many that we change the town identity. We saw the same few couples that arrived with my dad on the plane multiple times while we wandered the city, drank beer along the waterfront, and ate at a nice open-air restaurant. 

Monday: We set our alarms for midmorning and made our way down to the port where boats leave for El Castillo. We had thought there would be a 10AM fast boat but learned the next departure was a 12 o'clock slow boat. We killed 3 hours by eating $1.80 plates of traditional Nicaraguan breakfast (Gallo pinto, eggs, cheese, tortillas) and people watching in the boat terminal. Just before Noon, everybody got up and filed out the door to the dock, we followed. A little concerned at first if we could all fit, but the boat was very long and skinny and we had room. 
                       Line to get on the boat

The journey took about 2.5 hours, making multiple stops along the river at embankments where people would jump off and grab random items they had stashed in the bushes (machetes, rubber boots, or horses) before beginning their trek into the woods where we assumed they lived. We had a concrete dock in El Catillo and wandered the main path along the water to our hotel of choice, Hotel Tropical. It is a very good deal for $20/$25 per night, perched right over the wide rapids with a nice balcony and restaurant. 

El Castillo is famous for the fort built on the hill in town. Pirates from the Caribbean made numerous attempts to head up river and get to the wealthy city of Granada, but the rapids along this bend made it very difficult and the Spanish built the fort to make it even harder. Captain Morgan was the only one who figured out how to get through and he successfully raided Granada multiple times. Nowadays the fort is still in decent shape and we enjoyed walking up and around and through it. The small museum is informative and views are impressive.
                                                      View from the fort 

Tuesday: Up early for our free breakfast provided by the hotel (huevos rancheros) before embarking on a jungle tour we had booked the previous day. We rented the mandatory rubber boots, skeptical that we would need them, and then hopped into a boat for the 30 minute trip further down river to the Reserva Indio-Maíz, a large tract of untouched jungle. We parked where the Río Bartola flows into the Río San Juan, and signed the guestbook guarded by military men with large guns. 

The hike started a bit slowly, stopping at every tree so the guide could say stuff we didn't understand. We saw small frogs, large ants, colorful birds, interesting plant life, and we heard (but didn't see) some howler monkeys. It turned out the boots were very necessary as the trail was 6 to 12-inch deep mud for much of the 2.4 kilometers. It was a good walk and just nice to be in the deep jungle, far from civilization. 
            Making our way through the jungle
                                             After hike, view up Río San Juan
                                                   Further up the Río Bartola
                                         View of El Castillo and fort from boat 
                Our guide with his machete 

After the hike, we were boated further up the Río Bartola, through thick jungle to a swimming spot. We mostly just waded in the cold water while our guide fished. Then back in the boat for the return to El Catillo. A good full morning followed by relaxing on our balcony watching a thunderstorm, then lazily wandering town in search of food.

Wednesday: Up very early for free breakfast before jumping on the 7AM slow boat back up river to San Carlos. This trip took a little longer than the way down, the river was strewn with fallen branches and heavier flow due to overnight storms. We also experienced quite the scene at the Santa Fe bridge where workcrews and military personal were recovering pieces of a helicopter crash from the day before. They were also still searching for 2 of the passengers, which we learned about later by reading stories online. Apparently, some American businessmen and a former Nicaraguan presidential minister were in the chopper as it lost control and crashed into the river. An interesting and somber sight.
                                   Walking to the dock to catch the boat
                                                     The recovery efforts 

After 3hrs, we arrived in San Carlos and walked to the bus terminal where we didn't have to wait long for a ride up north to Juigalpa. My dad's first chicken bus ride did not disappoint. The bus made a ridiculous amount of jerky stops, it filled up way beyond the manufacturers recommended capacity, it made 1 long pitstop halfway through on the side of the road where passengers could urinate behind a locked outhouse, and the seats left our butts longing for a speedy arrival. The good news about this bus was the helpful attendant who showed us the best place to disembark for a short walk to the town center.

Juigalpa is a very normal town with a lovely confusing central park and surrounded by rocky hills. Despite not having any signs, we found Hotel Casa Country and spent the final hour of daylight looking at the central church and strolling through the cemetery. For dinner we ate at a diverse restaurant on Parque Palo Solo. I saw Huevos de Toro en salsa de Jalepeño (bull testicles in a Jalepeño sauce) on the menu and decided I had to try it. Luckily it wasn't kept in it's original shape and had the same texture as liver. The taste was fine but I don't think I will order it again. 
                                           Views from Parque Palo Solo in Juigalpa
                                                         Juigalpa cemetery 

Thursday: We quickly walked around a small arquelogical museum in the morning before eating another cheap Nica breakfast in a bus terminal marketplace. Then threw on our packs and made our way down to the highway to flag down a passing bus to Managua. This bus was a little nicer but the speaker directly over our heads blared music at a slightly painful volume. The music was in English and it is possible Julia and I sang along with the 4 Non Blondes tune "What's going on". 

In Managua, we took a cab to a different bus terminal and were immediately greeted by a man asking where we were going. He walked us over to the back of a bus he said was going to Granada and then showed us where the restrooms were. He then ushered us onto the bus, we assumed he worked for the bus company until he asked for a tip. Our policy is to generally refuse these requests because we find them annoying and deceitful. I told him we didn't really need his help and in the back of my mind questioned whether this was even the right bus. After he left empty handed, I walked to the front and asked the driver if this bus was indeed going to Granada because the front said destinations further south. He said it did and even seemed to confirm that it would drop us off at the bus terminal. I was satisfied with his response and walked back to our seats. 

After we started rolling and the helper came around collecting money, we learned that this bus was not going through town and that they would only drop us off at the crossroads, 11kms from Granada. Also, this bus costs almost twice as much as it should. Needless to say this upset us very much (also read embarrassed, we knew the Granada direct buses were on the other side of the terminal and don't know why we followed the guy). If my Spanish was better, I would have walked up front and had a conversation with the driver. But we had to just sulk for a few minutes before accepting our fate and try to enjoy showing my dad the complications that can arise while backpacking on a budget. The only positive that came out of this situation was the fact we got to take a fun cheap Tuk-Tuk (3-wheel cart taxi) ride into Granada and got dropped close to our hotel. 
                                                                 Rolling in a Tuk-Tuk

We know the city of Granada fairly well now, having shown Julia's parents and our friends Megan & Brock around town earlier this year. We stayed at the same hotel (Hotel Jericó) and partook in the same happy hour deals (2 mojitos for $1.80). We climbed up the tower of Iglesia La Merced and took cover during rainstorms that dampened the normally lively outdoor eateries. 

Friday: In an effort to do something different in this town, and to try and cater to my dad's interests, we did a chocolate making class at the Choco Museo. The instructor was nice but a little too pushy trying to get women to "dance sexy" while they stirred the roasting beans. He had his rehearsed stupid jokes about Ricky Martin and needing blood from a participant for a drink. The group chanted and danced for him, but only in an effort to win free chocolate. Despite this, the whole process was interesting and the drinks he made were tasty. I won a free chocolate bar for my skill at grinding up cacao beans into a smooth paste (which I awkwardly had to walk back to the Museo to request and am not entirely sure if he was joking about the prizes). At the end of class, we chose ingredients and formed our own bars to take home, which was the most rewarding part. I really love chocolate. 
                               .      Dancing around the cacao bean roaster 
                  Us with our teacher and our homemade bars on the counter.

That afternoon we did the customary boat tour of the Isletas (tiny islands) on Lake Nicaragua for $17. We saw the monkeys, the nice houses, and didn't get rained on. Back on land we snacked on Quesillos (sour cream & cheese filled tortillas) and Raspados (shaved ice with thick fruit juice). We did the cheap happy hour thing again that night and ate some good brick-oven pizza. 

Saturday: Free breakfast was followed by a quick look around the shops in the central park. Then the walk to the terminal for a bus to the town of Masaya. Our timing was perfect as the bus was just about to leave, the not so perfect part was we had to stand in the back for the entire 40 minute ride. My dad handled it like a champ. In town, we were dropped off at the busy market terminal and the bus helper tried to get me to pay for him having put my heavy bag (recently weighed-in at 47lbs) on the roof. I declined as I have never been asked for this before, and we walked away in search of the town center. 

We found our way around the town of Masaya and eventually to a grouping of hotels. The 4th one we inquired at had A/C and was the right price (Hotel Madera's Inn). We ate lunch in the central park and walked down to the waterfront for views across Lake Masaya out to Volcán Masaya. Those things were nice, but the major reason we came here is for their famous artisan market. Shopping is easy here, especially now that our backpack luggin' days have come to an end. Large portions of Chinese food were had for dinner. 
                                                My dad on the ride to Masaya 
                                 View across Lake Masaya to Volcán Masaya 

Tomorrow: No souvenir is too big or too heavy. We will be picked up in a car by Angela and Kaiden, and will return to Gran Pacifica. Although we have already acquired many things, we will still spend the morning wandering through stalls and negotiating prices. The next week will be spent golfing with my dad and trying to get in the Thanksgiving spirit. We hope everyone has a wonderful holiday week. 


Saturday, November 14, 2015

Head Full of Doubt/Road Full of Promises

Walking the seemingly quiet streets of San José, the awareness of heavy backpacks and a gradually filling bladder was increasing. It seemed any lodging would do, as long as it included a bed and a bathroom. Hotel Aranjuez, on our potential list and the first that appeared open, did much better than that. For a splurge of $38/night, there were high ceilings and a comfortable bed in the room, and a buffet breakfast in a gorgeous garden dining area. We paid for Sunday night and discussed our plans for the week. During this year, we've done a mediocre job of looking at volunteer opportunities in a select few countries. Discouraged by high application and administrative fees (most application fees alone were significantly more than we spend in an entire week), we finally found a great opportunity just outside of San José. Hogar de Pan Orphanage was a large, typical home that adopted an orphan child 35 years ago and since, has taken in many more; currently this ma and pa run orphanage is home to 42 niños. They survive completely on donations and volunteers and the website I found that described other traveler's experiences stated that the volunteers stayed in an additional home on property. Policy was to show up on their doorstep to begin, but since our spendy hotel included free local calls AND the receptionist spoke perfect English, we sweet talked him into calling the orphanage and check on our beliefs, since it was a 30+ minute bus ride away. Our volunteer dreams were short lived; you can still show up on their doorstep to volunteer, but they don't house volunteers anymore. We spent the next hour researching hostels close to the orphanage but, since it's a suburb of San José that doesn't attract tourists, they're practically non-existent. Unable to justify paying expensive lodging in San José and an hour on the bus each day, we bagged the idea and filed it away for "next time."

This obviously changed our schedule and availability for the next few days. After spending Sunday afternoon exploring the well developed, charming (in an urban, grungy but packed with smiling locals in central park sorta way) city, we realized we could see all we wanted to see in two days. While eating a typical cafeteria style dinner on the busy walking street, we agreed that our second night lodging decision would be made after we experienced the buffet breakfast the following morning.

                                     Popular flame throwing street performer

Monday morning we feasted on omelettes made to order, adorable dishes filled with fruit and creams, and pastries that can only be described as desserts. We paid for another night at Hotel Aranjuez and set out for a day full of museums, churches and markets. Despite the Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo website stating Monday there is free entry, the security guards told us they were closed and Tuesday was the free entrance day. We continued to walk towards the blocks of walking streets to find the Mercado Central, only to walk quickly through with a few glances at t-shirts and hammocks ironically made in Nicaragua. We made our way back to the Artisan market where we had made a successful purchase the evening before. A few more souvenirs were purchased to continue the tradition of only buying mementos towards the end of our backpacking trips to challenge our packs capacity. That evening, we enjoyed one of the few cheap traditional plate meals (casados) we've been able to find in Costa Rica.

      Many streets designated solely for pedestrians
                       Iglesia La Merced

We set our alarms a tad earlier on Tuesday morning to have more breakfast gorging time. See pictures below.

               The set-up with an egg/omelette/pancake ordering station to the left
                                                     The dining area
                          Attempting to pack our bags with a few additions

With very stuffed bags, we thanked Hotel Aranjuez (with two bananas smuggled for the road) and walked into the Contemporary Museum from the previous day. Our bags were stashed behind the counter, we were provided with free entrance, and what we allotted over an hour for took simply 15 minutes. As we continued our walk to the bus terminal, we agreed we were thankful that we attempted the museum thing in this capital city but were more thankful it was free. Between this museum and the disappointing contemporary museum in Panama City, we realize we are not huge fans of contemporary art.

The terminal for buses to La Fortuna had moved since our guide book was published, so we walked a few extra blocks before entering a three story modern mall. Our tickets were purchased on the third floor and we viewed the city while waiting an hour for our bus. We chatted with an Australian traveler for the 4 hour ride northwest into the highlands and walked together while looking at accommodation options. He settled for a $12 dorm, we continued our search and stumbled upon Hostal Posada Del Arenal. A sketchy looking sign next to a laundromat looked promising on price but less than promising on quality. We were led through a gate where a hidden building stood that contained four spacious rooms with private bathroom and a detached kitchen with a table or hammock for sitting. Surprisingly, the man running the place lowered the price from $30/night to $20 when we inquired what the price for four nights would be. This almost made up for the prior two nights steep accommodations and for the bag of coffee that we purchased in the market and later found in the grocery store for 1/3 the price.

La Fortuna is one of the largest tourist destinations in Costa Rica for its close proximity to Volcán Arenal, the most active volcano in CR. In 1968 she shocked the villages surrounding by erupting violently and burying homes and unfortunately, 80+ people. She continued with her natural firework and lava show until five years ago when all activity suddenly ceased. Our plans for the next three days in the gateway town of La Fortuna included exploring Arenal's waterfalls, trails and hot springs.

Wednesday, our day was spent exploring the town. After grabbing dinner out the previous night, we had picked up pancake mix to make a meal that would help us use the oil we were packing around since Cahuita (Micah enjoys carrying leftover ingredients in his backpack). Our typical pancake and banana breakfast was enjoyed and afterwards we walked the streets. Groceries were purchased for more meals and we tested our creative cooking abilities with minimal ingredients and equipment, making garlic-butter gnocchi and green beans for dinner. Micah also mixed tuna for sandwiches and marinated chicken, both in preparation for Thursday's meals.

                               View of Volcán Arenal from La Fortuna central park 
                      Communal kitchen
   Made with an electric skillet and single small pot (no usable pans, no functioning toaster)

Our alarm was set for 6:40am on Thursday, allowing us time to make breakfast and catch the 8am bus to Arenal. As we hit the snooze and then turned the alarm off, there was little regret. Unfortunately, 8am is the only bus heading towards the volcano and 2pm is the only return. Ideally we hoped to explore the trails and views around the volcano before heading back a few miles towards town to soak in the hot springs; with the bus schedule, this was not possible unless we chose to walk to the hot springs and catch the 2pm from there. We decided on Thursday that the following day we would rent bikes and pedal a few hills to reach the national park, giving us the freedom to come and go as we please. Micah's marinated chicken was made into a scrumptious stir fry dinner and we fell asleep early.

Friday the alarm woke us at 8am. French toast for breakfast, tuna and bread packed for lunch, and swimsuits with towels were stuffed into our day pack. We had inquired at a few shops about bike rentals on Thursday and so at 9:30am on Friday, we were at the cheapest shop's front door. Yesterday the man at the front desk pointed to a rack full of bikes and happily told us $10 per bike for the day. Today, he pointed at two sad looking bikes and told us we should test ride them first and make sure to check the gears, these two don't run well and soon they're not even going to rent them. Hesitantly, I test rode one and was pleased that all but 1/3 of the gears worked. Micah agreed after his test run and we were excited that we'd obviously get the runner up versions for cheaper. Surprisingly, the man wouldn't budge on his price so we decided to walk, assuming he'd break or we'd return. A few blocks further, a friendly Costa Rican told us that he'd give us their $20 bikes for $10 each. Eyeing two large scooters to the left of the shop, I inquired and he said the lowest he could go was $30 for the day. As we hummed and hawed, we shared our plans for the day with him and he immediately told us we shouldn't ride bikes along the narrow, busy and curvy road. He bluntly told us people die every year and that he shouldn't tell us this so we rent bikes and he makes money, but he had to be honest. We believed him and now had two options: rent the scooter and go on our own ($50 total, $30 for the scooter and $10 entrance fee/pp) or go on the tour he mentioned for $60, which included transportation, entrance fees, hiking, museum, waterfall, hot springs and two cocktails. After ignoring our alarm on Thursday and then signing our souls away on a guided tour, we realize that our backpacker strength and determination has began to soften as we near the end of our trip.

We returned to the shop at 2pm as instructed and, as is typical for Tico time, our mini bus rolled up at 2:20. Crammed with a dozen other tourists of similar age, we boarded and made our way towards the volcano on what can only be deemed as a road that is definitely not bike appropriate. We stopped at the hot springs for photo opportunities since it would be dark when we returned. This is where our loathing of the selfie stick began on this guided tour. There were two couples in particular (neither American and neither teenager girls, surprisingly) that held up the entire group numerous times throughout the afternoon to take selfies or pose awkwardly on rocks in front of other rocks. Despite this, we enjoyed ourselves and the tour was probably worth the money. Instead of the national park, admission was to a private reserve ($8/pp) with a viewing dock of Volcán Arenal and the man made lake where most of the damage was done during the eruption. 

Hot springs can be found through the tunnel to the right. Chronic selfie takers located behind me.
                                                             Lake
                                                             Volcano

The group took shelter for some time during a downpour and then braved the walk towards the waterfall. More pictures were taken before over half the group shed clothes down to bathing suits and got wet. The waterfall was extremely strong and the swimming hole probably considered dangerous by most, and I'd like to say it was refreshing because it was scorching hot out but that's not true. It was pretty frigid and those that stayed dry may have made the wiser choice.

                                                             Waterfall

Our walk continued through thick rainforest with multiple stops for the guide to tell us to avoid extremely dangerous snakes, or to smell citron leaves, or to chat with other walkers while we all stood in the pouring rain. It got dark and difficult to see and I believe one or two from or group turned around. We eventually made it to a small museum before climbing back into the van for our next destination.

Typically on the drive towards the hot springs, the tour stops and everyone exits the bus to search for the red eyed tree frog. Today, because of the rain, we were told they would instead bring the frog to us by capturing one and bringing it on the bus. These pictures should help describe the strange scenario that followed:

                A frog in his natural habitat
        Natural habitat walking through the bus

Our last stop was returning to the previously photographed hot springs, which were really the run-off of the hot springs from the resort that costs $31 just to enter and sit in the hot water. The water flows through a tunnel and then cascades 3 ft over a cement wall into a pool where attendees sit on rocks. The surrounding scenery is unique, with the cement pillars forming the bridge-like tunnel, decorated with graffiti and candles (placed by the guides) dispersed amongst the rocks. However, when Micah whispered "this kind of reminds me of a sewer", the perception of said scenery changed and it was all I could think of. Two rum and Fresca drinks were poured out of a Fresca bottle, there were mud facials, and then we called it a night.

          Getting our mud facial by candle light

This morning, Saturday, we left La Fortuna on a 7:15 bus heading towards Cuidad Quesada. We exchanged for a bus now heading to Los Chiles where we planned on crossing the Nicaraguan border and landing in San Carlos by boat. Micah had done diligent research and knew that there was a boat from Los Chiles to San Carlos at 12:30pm and it often filled quickly, so we hoped to be at the border by 11:30am. We disembarked the bus in Los Chiles around 11:20 and were told the border was another 6km away and we could catch a bus on the road. After much confusion and nearly 30 minutes, we learned that the bridge construction to San Carlos was completed and boats were no longer an option for transportation into Nicaragua. This put us on less of a time crunch and our understanding was the next bus to the border would be at 12:30, caught on the side of the road. We returned to the terminal to pay the $7 Costa Rican exit tax, after being told it had to be paid before you reached the border (FYI backpackers: there is an ATM at the border that allows you to pay the tax). The man in the market charged $2 commission, the pharmacy charged $1, so we paid the pharmacy $8 each for our $7 exit tax. Caught the bus, got an exit stamp, walked to Nicaragua, paid $24 total for both of us, got a stamp and cheered as we completed our last land border crossing of the trip. Waited for the collectivo to fill up and 7 hours after we started our journey, we arrived in San Carlos.

We are checked into Hotel Carelhys and are pleased to be back in the land of $15/night rooms and $3 complete meals. Slowly we are adjusting to the necessity of purchasing water and poor sewage systems that can't handle toilet paper. We also have yet to enjoy running water in our room; showers are done via the large garbage can filled with water sitting in the shower. Our fingers are crossed that Papa Hoelter's journey here goes smoothly and that he will arrive in San Carlos via airplane tomorrow around noon, ready to live the backpacker life with us for the next week.