South of the Border (Down Mexico Way)

Saturday was indeed a long travel day, but we are now in Mexico. It is a country that we have both briefly visited and I imagine most of you reading this have been to as well. I don't remember much from the time my family jumped across the border from Arizona into Nogales, but I do remember throwing a fit as we were leaving because I didn't get the string puppet (I think they are called marionettes) that I wanted. My kind parents went back and got it for me and I still have it to this day. I think the only other time I used this strategy was to get the Omega Supreme Transformer for Christmas, and it worked that time as well. I am ashamed of my actions and don't condone this behavior.

To get here from Xela; we took 2 buses, 1 shared taxi, and 2 minivans (collectivos) in a span of almost 12 hrs on Saturday. It began by us once again catching a bus from the street. Julia noticed "Mesilla" (the border town) on the front and flagged it down. We had hoped it would take us all the way to that border town, but they ushered us onto another bus at a junction town. Both buses were packed and uncomfortable but will be our last chicken buses for a while as they are not common in Mexico. At the border, we exchanged money and had an easy time checking out of Guatemala. 

                                      At the Guatemala - Mexico border in La Mesilla

After walking across, we had to catch a shared taxi to get to the immigration office about 6 kms in. As we rolled up, we saw a few minivans and a line of about 35 gringos and others waiting outside in the sun. The process was slow. They allowed 5 people inside the office at a time because they give you paperwork to fill out and scan it so it is linked to your passport. You then go back up to the counter and he checks it over before giving you a section to keep. It took us about 1.5 hrs of slowly moving forward before we were stamped and free and looking for onward transportation. The fancy bus company across from immigration had a direct bus leaving in about 4 hrs, so we took a shared 16 person minivan instead to a halfway town where we would catch another minivan. They were actually very nice and clean. Everybody has a seat, the windows are tinted, and the AC is on. They were fast and quiet as most people just slept. 

We rolled into San Cristobol de las Casas just after the sun had set and we were glad we booked a place online. Dropped our bags, found some street hamburgers and hotdogs, and then returned to shower and crash. A colonial city set in a high mountain valley, San Cristo is similar to Antigua with it's numerous churches and clean colorful streets. With Easter just around the corner, it is the holiday season in Central America and the town is filled with Mexican and Guatemalan tourists. There are still a fair amount of gringos but they are tougher to spot. There also seems to be more of an international mix of residents here, with numerous Italian restaurants as well as other styles. I must say I liked this place right away.

                                                        A city street 

Sunday we arose and peaked at some of the other hostal options before deciding that our current place was better and attempted to book 2 more nights. We ran into an issue as the young man at the front desk tried to explain that our previous price was a special for booking.com. The actual price was over twice as much. After failing to rebook online at the discounted rate, we packed our bags and hit the streets. We quickly found a new place for cheap (200 pesos or $13) run by a local family. 

Being Palm Sunday, the streets were busy with churched people holding intricate palm fronds and vendors of all types. We found a place selling cheap tortas that we have begun to love. They advertise them as "tortas cubannas" and they are stuffed with ham and cut up hotdogs, with cheese and mayo and mustard. The whole sandwich is fried using butter and they are big. 

             Torta in the forefront, and a huarache

Sunday was also a day of looking at churches, rain, and shopping for us. I bought a new bracelet, Julia found a dress at a clothes store (< $5), and then at night locals filled the square in front of the cathedral selling hand made things. After making fun of some other tourists all wearing the same sweater poncho thing, I proceed to buy one when I successfully bargained a guy down to 75 pesos (about $5) and Julia found a shawl for even cheaper. We embraced our tourist identity especially since most of the local tourist buy and take pictures of the same things. Plus it is colder here than any other town we have been in. 

                                       The market ladies laying out their stuff

               Julia in front of the cathedral

           Micah eating churros in his new sweater

Monday, we awoke to people gathering in the courtyard of our hostal for what turned into a church service at 9:15. We shyly stayed in our room until it seemed the service was over. I finally built up the courage to walk out to the shared bathroom and shower so that we could start our day. If this was in the US we would be upset at them for not informing us and for inconveniencing their guests. But we are in Mexico, so it is kind of cool. The scene transformed into more of a wedding reception by mid-day, with round tables and well dressed people eating. We left to explore the city and eat Mexican food. Walking by the central park, we stumbled upon a political demonstration for the Huelga group that we first saw in Xela (Semana Santa is apparently their big time to express their opinions). A woman stood on the back of a police truck and shouted things at the crowd. At one point she started talking to someone on the phone, we really don't know what was going on but whenever a crowd forms we swoop in to watch. 

                  Woman standing on back of truck yelling things to the crowd.

The churches were open today after being occupied on Sunday, so we walked into all of them. A nice variety of interiors including some stained glass and gold motifs. Also, they have a Mayan Medicine Museum that was all in Spanish but interesting from what we could understand. They still make the plant basedmedicine and sell it out of their farmacia.

                                                       Templo de la Caridad

When we returned to our residence to get out of the rain around 3:30 PM, the party was still going, now with a guy singing to loud music blaring on the speakers. By 6 it resembled more of a lounge act, with a man reclining in a chair with a microphone. Another man sat next to him playing on a keyboard and spinning the background tunes. A group of 5 sat at a round table clapping after each song. The other tables are empty and we have no idea why this is still going on, but we were no longer afraid to come and go as we please. 

Bread and donuts have now been purchased to go along with our 10:15 AM bus tickets to Palenque on Tuesday. The 5 hour trip on the nicest bus we have been on seems easy compared to Saturday's marathon. It should be warmer and there will be ruins in the jungle, so stay tuned. (FYI... the party ended at 8 PM)