Panama

Monday: A boat took us from Bahía Drake to Sierpe, a bus took us to Palmar (despite the gesticulations and lies from taxi drivers about departure times), another bus took us to Ciudad Neilly (the fullest bus we have ever ridden), and yet another bus was needed for the trip to Paso Canoas and Costa Rica's southern border. The clouds were dark but we stopped to spend the last of our coins on a churro and a pupusa. There seemed to be a permanent carnival setup across from the immigration office with bumper cars and games that win you stuffed animals. It began to rain hard. We put on jackets and protected stuff. We walked in the wrong direction for a few minutes before getting help. We were surpised that we needed to pay a departure tax and bag inspection fee of $7 a person (they never checked our bags), but had no choice. We got an exit stamp and walked toward Panama (pronounced "Pan-nuh-mah").

                                                       Buying Churros

Getting into Panama was fairly simple. We walked around the large tour group and had to show our fake onward plane ticket. We were surprised that we didn't have to pay anything to enter (our book says $5 for tourist card). We got entry stamps and walked back out into the rain. We boarded a mini-bus that would take us to the city of David (pronounced "Dah-veed").

                           Entering Panama

  

Arriving in David, we asked for directions to the central park and walked. A few hotels were found but were expensive. Some we just opened the door, saw fancy decorations, and walked out. We found a very clean place for a decent price and settled in. We walked the streets. We noticed women in more traditional colorful dresses than we had seen since Guatemala, representing an indigenous population that is more traditional. We found a small kitchen with food that had been sitting out too long, and ate dinner. Then we slept.

Tuesday: Walked 12 blocks to the new market. Cleanest market we have ever seen. Had airconditioning and lots of space. Meat is actually displayed on ice, vegetables not wilting in the heat, and food court is similar to a mall but with local kitchens. We ate lunch for $6.50, almost half as much as food was in our previous country. Not very busy probably because it is a little ways from town center. Seems to be catering more toward the wealthier class as there is ample parking and good security. 

                                                    New market in David

In Panama's 2nd largest city, we decided to check out the casinos for entertainment purposes (we don't have a gambling problem because we win more than we lose, or at least we used to). Then we waited out the daily rainstorm in our hotel. The streets around downtown are lined with clothes stores so we did some shopping. I (Micah) bought a pair of $4 sandals to replace the $2 pair I bought in Honduras. So far they are more than twice as good. She (Julia) contemplated buying some leather boots that were apparently very cheap (I don't know the boot market very well). She decided not to carry them around for the next 4 weeks since we will be coming back through town when we are on our way back northwest. Fingers are crossed that they will still be there (not my fingers). Dinner Tuesday night was street hotdogs. Good cheap popular filling street hotdogs. Again at night we slept.

Wednesday: Some business had to be completed, fortunately checkout wasn't until 2pm. An application was printed and filled out, then a single envelope was purchased and all was mailed to an office in Olympia, Washington. A cafeteria style lunch was eaten before backpacks were packed and put on backs. We walked to the bus station and boarded a bus headed to the mountain town of Boquete (pronounced "Bo-ket-eh").

The road rises gradually until you reach an elevation of close to 1,000 meters. We were surprised at the existence of a 4-lane hwy the whole way. The town of Boquete has seen an influx of expats since the AARP named it a top retirement spot due to the cool climate, beautiful setting, and fertile soil that grows delicious things. We found a quaint hostal with just 4 rooms built next to the owners house. We ate some good food and bought some necessities (wine and salsa) to keep in our fridge. Night fell and we retired for the evening. 

                                            The river that flows through Boquete

Thursday: Lunch was followed by a short walk out of town to Mi Jardin Es Su Jardin, a garden that is open to the public. Koi pond with big colorful fish and plants with big colorful flowers. Rain began to fall and we ran to Cafe Ruiz, a popular coffee shop just down the road. They sell the famous Gesha coffee you may know from a local shop in Portland called Starbucks. We drank a fancy hot chocolate (neither of us really drink coffee). The rain soon slowed to a mist and we walked back into town and bought bread. Back at the hostal, the darker clouds rolled in and we sat on the front porch to watch the lightning and be deafened by the loud thunder. We planned the arrival of a friend, known on the blogosphere as "Stanley", and look forward to his arrival in mid-October in Panama City. Dinner was at a restaurant geared toward kids that sells fancy hotdogs and hamburgers. Music could be heard from the neighborhood that night but we easily drifted off.

                                                         Flower at the Jardin

                 Taking shelter from the rain

Friday: Ate bread with peanut butter and bananas for breakfast. Julia asked 4 people for directions and we found the 10:45am bus to Caldera for Los Pozos de Caldera, an undeveloped hot springs. We correctly assumed that the bus driver knew where we wanted to go just by looking at us and were dropped at the sign. We walked down the gravel road for about 5 minutes before a man going fishing picked us up in his SUV with airconditioning. He dropped us at the river crossing and saved us about 30 minutes. We crossed the bridge and turned left. Up a dirt road until the sign leading us onto private property. Down the muddy road/path until we pay a man $2 a person to sit in his hot water. One pool is surrounded by a rock wall and dug deep enough to sit in, but is small enough to be awkward with 2 couples. Others are down near the banks of the river, partly mixed with the cool mountain water. With the warm sun, we spend more time in the boulder-strewn river, laying on rocks and floating down small rapids. Sand flies bite when you are closer to shore and near sand, leaving small red marks but no pain. I worked on shoring up the walls of one of the warm pools. It was fun but only slightly successful. We test out the rock-walled pool when it is available. It is relaxing but clostrophobic. We return to the river to kill a little more time before we must walk back and catch the bus. 

                                                             Río Caldera

                                                      The main hot pool

On the walk, dark storm clouds are seen in every direction and thunder cracks loudly. We make it under the cover of the bus stop before rain really starts to fall. We hop on the late 4pm bus and the skies clear before we are dropped off back in Boquete. We eat chips & salsa and drink wine. We cleanup and head out for big plates of food. Returning to the hostal, we finished the box of wine because Saturday is a travel day. We felt very relaxed from a day spent walking and playing in hot & cold water. Sleeping was easy. 

Saturday: As stated earlier, today is a travel day. Destination is Isla Boca Brava (pronounciation obvious) in the Golfo de Chiriqui (pronunciation unknown). On the pacific side, our book makes it sound like a nice place to visit. We will let you know in a few days if that is true. 

Turn The Page

Once upon a time, in the quaint village of Agujitas, there was a traveling duo living the Costa Rican dream. In the early hours of Wednesday, the warm rays of the sunrise shone in through their transparent curtains, waking the boy and girl from sleep. Little did they know that as the days ensued, so would this pattern of early morning wake up calls for their week long stay in Agujitas. This morning in particular was spent like most; reclined in the adirondack chairs on their deck overlooking Drake Bay, book in hand, occasionally glancing up to observe the loud but beautiful scarlet macaws. These birds seemed to live in the tallest trees and feed off the walnuts (appropriately named beach walnuts). They were often seen dangling by their claws from the branches, fighting off other macaws that desired the same branch. It provided great entertainment for the travelers, many mornings and afternoons.

That Wednesday afternoon, the boy and girl threw on their swimsuits and walked along the coast, heading west towards Playa Cocalito. Forty minutes later, they arrived to the small beach, bordered by rocks on each side. Mostly deserted with only one other couple to be seen, an hour was spent joyously playing in the waves on the few sandy spots that could be found under the water. To the west of the beach was another tree filled with macaws that made lying in the sand and playing hangman even more enjoyable.

                   Crossing Río Agujas

                                                       Playa Cocalito

The hike back required precise attention to the signs directing one to walk down the hill on the broken tile pieces instead of following the perfect looking trail straight ahead. Upon arriving back to town, the two stopped for a late lunch at a restaurant on the bay and the boy happily ordered salchipapas. He had seen these on a menu at a different restaurant earlier, and had been craving sliced up hot dogs over french fries topped with copious amounts of mayonnaise and ketchup ever since. 

This Wednesday was a special day; the young girl wasn't so young anymore, as this day marked 32 years since the world had first met her. The sneaky, charming boy was aware of this and he made a scrumptious Asian rice dish for dinner that evening. He had also slyly purchased a box of wine, chocolate cake mix and ice cream from the store (he sure knows his traveling companion well). Realizing that the oven was filled with spiders and wouldn't turn on, there was a moment of despair followed by Google searching for how to bake a cake without an oven. Google provided such complex answers as "place large pan on stove top with rack inside, then place smaller pan containing cake inside larger pan," but the girl sadly discovered the kitchen was definitely not equipped for this. Then, the boy had an idea: "I'll make pancakes with the mix instead!" he exclaimed. And he did. And together, the two ate one-third of the cake, smothered in ice cream and bananas. And it was so good, the two vowed to never go to the trouble of baking a cake in the oven again.

                        Better than cake pancakes with vanilla ice cream and bananas

Fighting a cake induced coma, Thursday the two could be found either on their deck or in the kitchen. There were high hopes of spotting whales or dolphins from their deck, but this never happened. Neither were disappointed though, as the macaws and other bird sightings kept them distracted. The boy continued reading The Old Patagonian Express, a book that was written by a young man traveling by train through Central America in the 1970s. The girl fought to enjoy the classic book, Frankenstein. Lunch was quite the ordeal for these two, as they made chicken burritos with enough to pack up for some lofty plans the following day. Dinner was leftover Asian chicken rice, and another third of the birthday cake.

Parque Nacional Corcovado is the draw for many travelers to the area of Agujitas, where tours are often based out of. This park has an amazing amount of biodiversity and is considered the last great original tract of tropical rainforest in Pacific Central America. Researching ways to explore this vast area but attempting to avoid paying for guides or entrances fees, the boy discovered a hike on the perimeter of the park that would pass multiple beaches. Again donning swimsuits, packing a bag with burritos and snorkel gear, and lacing up their hiking boots, the duo headed out on Friday morning. Out the door after splitting a burrito and an unfortunate plantain that was disguised as a banana for breakfast, the two set out on the same path they had done the previous Wednesday to Playa Cocalito. They passed the familiar beach, and continued walking for another two hours into the rainforest.

The trail was mostly flat, and hugged the coastline nearly the entire path. As they trudged along, the wildlife they were exposed to became more diverse and awe-inspiring. There were countless scarlet macaws (this area is home to the largest population) encouraging the travelers eyes to stay on the thick forested branches above, which allowed them to spot the toucan. The bright yellow chest and beak gave him away, and the girl was able to tip toe closer for some photo ops. While doing so, another five or more were noted in neighboring trees.

         The smoother part of the 2.5 hour hike

                              One of many toucans quietly hiding in the trees

During the hike, spider monkeys occasionally leapt from branch to branch overhead and howlers could be heard in the distance. As the boy and girl neared their destination beach, Playa Josecito, a new monkey was spotted: the white faced capuchin. This monkey had been observed at their previous stop in Manuel Antonio, but not as clearly or close up as it was in this forest. Actually, it was a bit closer than either was comfortable with. The monkey, known for taking people's belongings, was not shy in closing the distance between human and monkey. When the hikers finally reached their beach and started picnicking on their burritos, a capuchin climbed down a branch just over their belongings and they had to move their packs and yell at the monkey.

              Spider monkeys everywhere

                  I named this one Marcelle 

With bags securely attached to a tree and bellies full of burritos, the two were ready to jump in the clear Pacific water for some snorkeling but first had to wait out the storm that began when they arrived. Realizing it made no difference if they were wet on the beach or in the water, they jumped in and let the rain fall. Once clear skies returned, snorkel gear was brought out and they attempted snorkeling around the rocks near the shore and a small island 40 meters off the coast. The waters boasted more abundant coral and fish than they'd seen in months, but both agreed nothing compares to the Caribbean.

                                                     Playa Josecito

Around 2:30pm, the boy recommended they begin to head back to reach their bungalow before dark. Hiking boots were put back on and the walk out began, but with a new companion. A friendly white dog, given the name Josecito, was guarding their bags from the monkeys when the two returned from snorkeling. He was given water as a thank you and in return, he walked the travelers halfway home before happily finding a new beach to play at.

                                            Boy, girl, Josecito the dog

Once home and cleaned up, the duo retreated to the kitchen for another meal. They were quite proud of themselves, shopping for five days worth of food and devising meals that were unique but used similar ingredients. This night, they feasted on bacon, cheese, refried bean and tomato omelettes. And the remaining third of the cake mix in pancake form.

Saturday was another day of rest for the two; books on the deck, research and discussions regarding their next stop. They made an outing for lunch and stopped at the grocery store to purchase a few more products to help use all the leftovers. With a deck and ample room to hang a shoe string, laundry was done in the afternoon. The boy did his first, using a large garbage bag to fill with hot (first time handwashing clothes in hot water!) soapy water. He threw his clothes in, let them soak, then replaced the bag with fresh water before tossing them around for the "agitate" portion of the cycle. The clothes were then rinsed, rung dry and hung. Next was the girls turn; she did nearly the same process, but received a blister from aggressively ringing out her clothes and is not confident they smell any better.

                                         Making good use of the deck

That evening, another rice and chicken dish was made but with a jalapeño cream sauce that made it taste completely different from the first dish with practically the same ingredients. Dishes were washed and the two returned to their room to find a cockroach hiding by the bed. The girl found a broom and the boy managed to sweep it out, after it eluded capture multiple times.

Sunday, (today) the two made the most of their last day on Drake Bay. Quesadillas were made for brunch, a resourceful way to use the tortillas and sour cream left over from previous meals. The deck was used for more reading, clothes drying and a perfect viewing of a lightening storm. There was an afternoon stroll along the beach, cut short by a few raindrops. The room was paid for and tickets purchased for the 7:15 boat the next morning, after discovering that the bus was very temperamental based on rain and picked up at 4am. Dinner was the leftover chicken and rice from the previous night, leaving them with two pounds of uncooked rice as the only ingredient they couldn't finish off. It will be packed and carried.

                        A macaw in the trees just behind Cabinas Murillo

                           View of the bay and a storm rolling in from the right

In the next part of their adventure, the two hope to cross the border and arrive in David by late afternoon the following day. They both look forward to the conveniences that a big city has to offer after their recent stays in small towns. And of course, experiencing the last country of their year long journey, Panama.

-J2

Cash Rules Everything Around Me

We have hit the main tourist attractions and now understand why people say that Costa Rica is expensive. Our budget has spiked a little the past week. The first 10 days here we averaged around $50/day, with lazy days on the beach and a good amount of cooking for ourselves. The last 7 days we are spending close to $83/day, with National Park entry fees and a couple of boats rides. But I am not complaining, the parks have been spectacular and we have seen some amazing things. I will describe some of those things below and let you see that it is money well spent.

Julia's last correspondence put us in the town of Quepos, near Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. The most real Costa Rican town we have been in, we enjoyed the multiple cheap food options and seeing people doing jobs not related to tourism. On Thursday morning, after dropping off our laundry, we caught the bus out to Manuel Antonio and paid $16/person to enter one of the most popular parks in the country. Luckily we are here in the slow season so the tiny protected coastal forest wasn't completely packed with people and we were often on trails by ourselves. The views from the lookouts were decent, but the main reason people flock here is to see the wildlife and the beaches. About 5 minutes in, we see a guided group looking up into the trees and spot a tucan. Five minutes further down the trail, another guide is setting up his telescope and saying the magical word "sloth". We slide on over and spot the unusual animal lounging in a tree, not doing much. We had really been hoping to see one of these 2 or 3 toed sloths and just a little later spotted another one even closer and even more lazy. Apparently they only come down from the trees once a week to use the bathroom and can lay around all day because their body digests food very slowly. 

                        Tough to see sloth

                    Looking for more animals

Other creatures around the park are white-faced capuchin monkeys, howler monkeys, some rodent thing, and raccoons that steal food from absent minded beach loungers. It was amusing to watch the pack of animals work their way down the beach, checking out each unattended bag, and people running in from the water to throw sand at them. The frustrating part is that everyone is warned about this when they enter the park and how bad the human food is for the animals, but still they casually leave sandwiches and chips out in the open for raccoons to grab. 

The beaches are on both sides of the rocky jungle filled penninsula called Punta Catedral. We hiked around it for good views and had to find a way over a large tree that had fallen straight down the path and onto a bridge during a storm the night before. After working up an appetite, Julia made ham and avocado wraps while I scared off raccoons with a stick. We relaxed and played on the most idyllic beach, Playa Manuel Antonio, with soft sand and lined with palm trees. 

                                                    Playa Manuel Antonio

                                                 Defending our bag of food 

When we got back to our hotel, we felt tired from all the walking and realized that we had woken up to the alarm for 6 days in a row. That frightened us a little and had us questioning our lifestyle choices. We needed a rest day and thus decided to kill another 24hrs in Quepos. Friday; we walked around town and ate lunch in the market, ducked into the casino and joined some locals in throwing some money into the slot machines, talked with a gringo who owns a bookstore and felt bad for not buying anything from him, studied our guidebook to determine our next destination, and had dinner at our favorite kitchen that does interesting side salads (pasta salad the 1st visit, beet salad the 2nd). 

Saturday was a short travel day. Busing south along the coast for just under 2hrs took us to the small town of Uvita. A few groups of businesses along the highway surrounded by farm houses is the town center. We were dropped off there but couldn't find any lodgings that we liked. So we made the 2km walk down dirt roads toward the ocean, in hopes of finding a better selection. We came upon another small village which I think is technically called Bahía, and a big sign pointed to multiple cabanas and lodges down another dirt road. So we walked another kilometer in the midday sun before finding some places to checkout. Cabinas Bambu looked like the cheapest and was just 150 meters from the beach. We booked 2 nights at 14,000 colones/night ($26), dropped our bags, and set out to find food. 

The main reason we came here is because the coastline is protected as Parque Nacional Marino Ballena, and is a prime spot to see migrating humpback whales. Our timing was perfect since the first 3 weekends of September they have whale festivals and locals descend upon his tiny area in hordes. We strolled the beautiful beach before walking the one road through town and seeing all restaurants packed with people. We spotted a couple waiting at the bus stop whom we had met previously in Monteverde. They had done a whale watching tour that morning and told of a giant humpback rising out of the water in front of their boat that splashed down, soaking everyone onboard. They loved it and we were sold on doing it the next day. 

After saying goodbye to our travel friends, we continued to strikeout on food options so decided to buy 2 days worth of groceries. We expanded our food variety this time and for dinner ate well made omelettes and chicken patty sandwiches. We also enjoyed the local feel of our cabinas, with the constant noise of drinking and laughing old men who seemed to be part of a tour group. 

Sunday was an early wake up but for a good reason, we wanted to get on one of the first tours. We packed a lunch and snorkel gear (not for the whales) and after paying 20,000 colones/person ($37.50) for the tour and $6/person to enter the marine park, we were on a boat by 8am. The beach was already packed with people as all the tour operators were working together and offering discounted (probably shorter) whale watching tours for the festival weekends.

Our tour started out fairly slow. We saw boats gathered and could spot the whales from a distance, but they have rules that only 3 boats can be around a whale at a time and they must keep a distance of at least 50 meters from the large mammals. Smooth black backs could be seen rising out of the water and the occasional spout of water rose into the air. I rapidly snapped pictures, not knowing if the view would get any better. 

                                             The back of a humpback whale

We got very close to a mother & baby and could see how gigantic they were. They arched their backs and dove down for a few seconds. Then we saw the baby rise up out of the water, almost fully exposed. I had my camera on the sequential function and held down the trigger. The baby splashed down and immediately to the right, the much larger momma rose up twisting into the air. It was an amazing sight. You hear everyone on the boat gasp and hold their breath, for a brief moment all is silent. Then the thunderous pounding splash as the whale returns to the water. We all breath again and cheer. I kept my finger pressed down and panned over just in time to catch a few good shots. 

                                                                 The baby

                                                         The momma

                                                          Very acrobatic

                                                    The splash down

                                                        The proverbial selfie    

   

The pair of whales continued this pattern for 2 more jumps as they ventured off away from us. We were all a little giddy at this point and shortly after, the guide said we wouldn't see anything better and told us we were going to head back. Normally we would be upset if they cut a $37 tour short because they had other groups waiting, but we had seen what we wanted and I guess it is always good to leave on a high note. 

Back on shore, we were free to explore the beaches of the marine park and try to get our $6 worth. They were some of the prettiest we have seen, when you got away from all of the people. Palm trees leaned at gravity defying angles over the water and the sand was a nice golden brown. At low tide, we were able to walk out onto Punta Uvita which is shaped like a whales tail. A sand bridge connects the rocky reef to the shore and we did a little snorkeling. As the tide comes back in, waves converge from both sides and the crowd of people walk back to the shore in knee high water. We found a shady spot under the trees and ate tuna salad out of a zip-lock bag, watching a gringo couple do numerous awkward yoga poses under a palm tree while their camera on a tri-pod snapped away. As I was walking back into the water, I spotted a small sting-ray and determined that it was time to explore the other parts of the park. 

                                  Playa Bahía Uvita as it heads toward Punta Uvita

                          The view from the whale tail looking back toward the beach.

               The walk back to our cabinas 

We enjoyed a lazy rest of the day. For dinner we ate a mixture of carrots, onions, breaded chicken patties, an instant ramen noodle bowl, and some sauce out of the fridge that looked good. With a side of toast, it actually turned out to be a tasty meal. 

Monday was another travel day. Our goal was the town of Agujitas on Bahía Drake (or Drake Bay).  The town sits on the border of Parque Nacional Corcovado, labeled the most biologically intense place on the planet, the plan is to get a taste of the intensity without having to pay for a guided tour or camping gear. We had been researching the cheapest way to get there for a couple days and figured the buses weren't running in the rainy season, thus settled on the more standard route. 

We waited an hour in Uvita for a bus that would take us to Palmar, about an hour south. There, we ate lunch and waited another 1.5 hrs for the bus to take us down the road to Sierpe. I was nervous at this point but the delays didn't hurt us and we made it to the boat dock about 15 minutes before departure. We saw the small boat pull up and looked around at the 28 people who seemed to be waiting to get on, wondering how this would work. We positioned ourselves near the front and got seats and somehow everyone made it onboard (with 1 guy sitting on the front holding a rope). The success was short lived though, as the captain shut the motor off about 10 minutes down river and called a friend to help lighten the load. Twenty minutes later, another boat comes flying down river and 8 of us were selected to get in the new boat, oddly 6 of us were backpackers and the other 2 seemed like a Tico/Gringa couple with a baby. We worried a little about leaving our packs stashed on the other boat, but just had to relax and enjoy the ride. It was a fun ride, winding down the brown slow moving river before coming out into the turquoise Drake Bay as the sun was going down. About an hour later we hoped off in Agujitas as darkness settled in. 

                                               Transferring some of the weight

                        Keeping a close eye on our luggage as we cross the bay

We walked up the dirt road and quickly found Cabinas Murillo. Our goal was to find a spot with a view of the bay where would could relax for a week or more. Well, we knew as soon as we saw it that this was the spot. For $30 a night, we have a private room with 2 chairs on a back deck and sweeping water views. That night we found reasonably priced meals and watched a small parade in preparation for Costa Rican Independence Day on September 15 (today). 

Waking up today (Tuesday), we felt that great feeling of nothing to do. We sat out on our deck and watched as a flock of scarlet macaws flew over and landed in some trees not far away. They sqauked for an hour before flying around some more. I will go on the record as saying they are the coolest birds I have seen in the wild. The bright colorful red, yellow, and blue feathers contrast so well with everything else around that they seem cartoon like. You should look them up on the internet because our pictures don't show it. We also had a prime viewing spot for the kid's parade that rolled up and down the main dirt road right below us, complete with marching band and batton twirlers. Everyone wearing their national red, white, and blue colors, it was very much like something you would see in the states.  

                                       Enjoying the view from our back deck

                   Independence Day parade

Now that we have spent $45 on groceries, the plan is to cook most of our meals and do the occasional hike along the coast. The beaches are supposed to be nice with animal filled jungle right up to the water. This should help bring some of the costs down before we leave Costa Rica via it's southern exit and enter Panama. Until then we have some celebrating to do tomorrow for Julia's Cumpleaños, some books to read, and a big body of water to stare at. 

From The Clouds

After months on the beautiful beaches of Nicaragua and Costa Rica, we were anxious to pull out our long sleeves and explore the cloud forests of Monteverde. We caught the 10am bus on Saturday from Playa Sámara to Nicoya and were allowed time for empañadas during our hour wait for our next bus. We boarded a bus bound for San José but exited after an hour at La Irma, the cross roads of Monteverde. We took shelter under a wasp nest infested bus stop and chatted up a few German girls on a month long journey. After an hour wait, we were watching for the bus to roll around the corner when one of the German girls began frantically searching her belongings. She misplaced, or had stolen, her spare wallet containing the cash she took out of the ATM just the day before. She returned to the café down the road where she last had it and was visibly shaking and upset when she returned empty handed. I wanted to hug her but didn't know if I smelled good enough to hug a stranger. We prayed it would turn up in her pack later, thanked our lucky stars we've had no such experience, and boarded our final bus to Monteverde.

                                                     Waiting for the bus

The 31 km trip to Monteverde took two hours, as a result of unpaved roads and multiple twists and turns as we climbed to 1400 meters. The surrounding landscape quickly thickened into hills and valleys of lush foliage and we had a great view of Nicoya Bay to the east. We arrived to Santa Elena, the main Tico village amongst the cloud forest reserves, and were handed a pamphlet for a hostal in town. On the main strip, Pura Vida Backpackers Hostal offered a snug room with a private hot water bathroom and a free breakfast along with the use of their kitchen. Despite the man dropping the price from $25 to $20/night for that room, we chose to check out the competition before committing. The two other options were slightly more expensive, so we returned to PVB. Now a different guy at the desk, we explained to him that we'd like to take the room that the previous man told us we could have for $20. Without skipping a beat, he told us that room was taken but we could have another, although for $25. Micah and I have been playing poker and other card games more recently, and I'm getting the upper hand on reading people's poker faces; I was calling his bluff. We asked him to show us this more expensive option, which had an extra twin bed crammed in the room. I crinkled my nose a few times, looked displeased and waited for him to fold. He was speaking on a walkie-talkie and after a minute, said "oops, I messed up. The other couple booked THIS room; the one you want is still available. For $20." Not surprisingly, the light never came on in the room next door.

The streets of Santa Elena are lined with souvenir shops and restaurants of various cuisines, but manages to still have a more local feel than the previous towns we'd explored. We scoped out the souvenirs and the grocery store before settling on casados (the typical Costa Rican plate consisting of meat, rice, black beans, salad, stir fry squash, and a fried plantain) for our dinner. Settling into bed, we were happy for the extra blankets on our bed as we could hear the wind whipping through the hallway of our hostal.

Sunday morning we woke up in time to partake in our free breakfast, which was serve yourself style cold cereal, bananas, and toast and jam. We continued our exploration of Santa Elena town for the morning and even found a scale for a quick update on our weight loss. Despite mediocre reviews online, we planned to visit the Monteverde Cheese Factory for the afternoon. Believing it was too much of a walk, we waited for the 1:30pm bus and then watched it pass us on a side road at 1:31pm. We took the long way back to our hostal, got chased by a wiener dog, and ran into the German girls who sadly never found their wallet.

                 Self guided tour of town

That evening we picked up pasta ingredients at the grocery store and had the kitchen to ourselves. As we were cleaning our dishes, a couple began cooking and we conversed. Emilie and Tim, from Switzerland and Boston, had been on the road for three months and hit a lot of the same stops as us. We exchanged stories and pictures at the dinner table for a few hours and enjoyed reliving some memories that already seem so long ago. 

                                                   Pasta and boxed wine

After learning that Emilie and Tim enjoyed their walk to Monteverde, Micah and I agreed to skip the bus on Monday morning. Our first stop was Cerro Amigos, a steep hike to 1842 meters for a decent view of Montevede cloud forest and on the other side, overlooking the vast jungle hills and Nicoya Bay. While making breakfast that morning, we took advantage of the self serve bread and jam and made PB&J sandwiches which made for the perfect picnic at the lookout. We descended the 3 km, spotting insects and plants foreign to our eyes. There were also swarms of bumble bees, which took a liking to Micah. He would duck and speed walk through the buzzing, occasionally yelling "I'm not a flower" in case they were confused. It worked, no stings.

        From the lookout, over the cloud forest

                                                            Our picnic spot

Our reward was continuing our walk in to town towards the cheese factory. After indulging in ice cream cones, we walked back to Santa Elena for a total of 14 km that day. Dinner consisted of leftover pasta with additions from the communal fridge. We were tracking a package of cured meats and two slices of Monteverde cheese that appeared to be abandoned; after three days and no owners claims, we agreed they were up for grabs and would thicken the pasta nicely. That, along with a salad, and a mojito out of a can made for a nice supper.

Tuesday, yesterday, was devoted to a cloud forest expedition. In the Monteverde area, there are two main reserves: Reserva Biológica Bosque Nubroso Monteverde and Reserva Santa Elena. The former is larger and crowded with visitors; it is deemed one of the seven wonders of Costa Rica and was ranked the 14th place in the world to visit before it disappears. Originally settled in the 1930s by loggers and farmers, it was the Quakers in 1951 that established the reserve to protect the watershed. Due to the amount of tourists that the Monteverde reserve gets annually (10x as much as Santa Elena) and the marginally cheaper admission price, we chose to visit Santa Elena's reserve. A 30 minute bumpy van ride, $14 each and we were in a cloud forest.

                              So thick!

          Different forms of life were everywhere

There were numerous dewy trails through the veiled forest. We began our hike on the perimeter trail with rain coats on due to the light mist. Ten minutes into our walk we crossed paths with one other couple and guide and then felt that we had the forest to ourselves for the next hour. Intermittently, the silence was broken with high pitched bird chatter, which resulted in us frantically searching the trees and epiphytes. We were hoping to spot the quetzal bird, sloths and frogs but only occasionally saw wee little birds. However, we were not disappointed; the variety of flora, the quiet and the fresh air were wonderful. Halfway through our hike, the sporadic drizzle turned into a constant pour but it didn't stop us from climbing a lookout tower. To be above the forest and see and feel the clouds moving through you was magical, and we laughed and screamed as we held tightly onto the swaying frame of the tower.

On the main paved trail which turned to a small dirt path

Very cloudy and misty so visibility wasn't as good as we'd hoped 

                                         Hanging on to the tower for dear life

We killed an hour in the cafeteria/ souvenir shop at the reserve and ate our second round of PB&J sandwiches made again that morning during breakfast. We caught the 1pm bus back to Santa Elena, bought bus tickets and a large loaf of coconut and cream bread, both for the next morning, and then changed out of our drenched clothes. After a few hours of relaxing, we found our dinner of tacos and burritos at a small stand we'd been eyeing the past few days.

This morning we set our alarms for 4:45 and were on the bus by 6am. Our 3 hour trip to Puntarenas was fortunately timely and we made it on the 9am departure from Puntarenas to Quepos. The highlight of the early morning was the aforementioned bread, which was twice the size of all the others on the same shelf and delicious. Also, the fact that we arrived at a destination 5+ hours away from our starting point by noon. 

We found a hotel with a room 3x the size of our last for $30/night, but left our bags at the front desk since the room wasn't ready yet. There was a local soda down the road with casados that made for our cheapest sit down meal in Costa Rica yet at $10. This afternoon we got our bearings of the town, stocked up on lunch items to make wraps for tomorrow, and watched the controversial movie The Interview on TV.

Tomorrow we'll check out the highly recommended Manuel Antonio National Park, boasting sparkling blue beaches, tropical birds, and playful monkeys. We have one more stop planned in Costa Rica after this but are hoping to find a beach and a home that tempts us to stay for awhile.

Know How

Costa Rica has been good so far. One week down and we are still on the beaches. A little more expensive but not crazy. Some minor transportation issues but nothing we can't handle. The only frustration has been trying to find local kitchens to feed us for a reasonable price, and we somewhat succeeded at that today. So, I guess we have it all figured out now. Which means I can now present you with our ...

Northern Beaches of Costa Rica Travel Guide:

When in the popular weekend getaway town of Playa del Coco on a Sunday, try the cafeteria style eatery next to the bank. You can see all of the dishes laid out under a buffet window and the servings are large enough that you will be taking home leftovers. Store the food in the fridge back at your hostal and pack a bag for the 4km walk down south to Playa Ocotal. A nicer beach than Coco with black & tan sand that is soft and good for playing. To the right is a rock outcropping where there is good snorkeling, but only if you are strange and don't want to see any fish. Otherwise, it is poor with only somewhat clear water and very little plant life. Laying down is a popular activity as well as the always fun running and screaming from crashing waves that the locals enjoy. 

                                            Playa Ocotal with it's amazing sand 

Be sure to time your walk back in order to have shelter before the daily 5pm thunderstorm. The trees on the side of the road make good cover if it starts to rain before you can reach the large grocery store back in town. After you get inside, the rain will really start to come down and will be deafening on the tin roof. Take your time buying food for dinner as these storms normally last over an hour. If it is still pouring, wait in the entryway with everyone else or just throw a small plastic bag on your backpack and make a run for it. To cross the streets that have now become rivers, I suggest holding your Birkenstocks in your hand and going barefoot even though your girlfriend offers to carry you on her back. The onlooking locals will respect you more.  

Dinner that night will consist of a cucumber, tomato, onion, avocado, lime salad and yellow rice mixed with leftover BBQ pork. While eating in the hostal kitchen, the shirtless, jean short wearing expat who sports an eye patch will tell you stories of how dangerous it is down here and you must resist asking the obvious question, "Why are you living in a dirty hostal in a dangerous town amongst people you apparently don't like when you collect $4,000 a month in retirement?". Just wait it out and find the right moment to slide back to your room and hope he doesn't find you. 

Monday, after another muggy night trying to sleep, eat the remaining leftovers and then you are free to explore the town and it's many touristy shops. They have some some decent stuff but it is too early in your trip to be weighed down by such things. If the rain comes a little early, a great way to kill time is in the small casino just a block away. Two floors of slot machines and 4 servers at your beckon call since the place is completely empty. The man who gives you free non-alcoholic drinks has "dealer" on the back of his shirt so he might be willing to deal you some hands of blackjack if you can stomach the $5 min wager. The best bets are the nickel slots which help kill time and provide nice small victories. All payouts are done manually by a lady who waits for the cash-out music and has you sign a handwritten receipt before giving you your $13. A little annoying, but the joy comes on your girlfriend's first spin on the new machine downstairs. Two diamonds with a 5x multiplier in the middle and she's got herself a nice 420 credit win, or $21. Let the good times roll longer before she collects $35 from the $10 deposit. Go celebrate at Sizzler if they ever open one up in Playa del Coco. Otherwise, feast on a hamburger and chicken strips from the food truck up the road to emphasize that you are an American doing American things in a foreign country. 

                        This could be you

On Tuesday, it is time to pack-up and check out the beaches further south. While standing under the bus stop sign, taxi drivers will offer you rides and tell you that the bus you want isn't running. When random people walking by tell you the same thing, you can start to believe them. The one passer by who speaks English will explain that buses from Liberia can't get past the airport until after 2pm for some unknown reason. A bus will then come down the road with "Filadelfia" on the front and you will be told that connections can be made from there and it will be even quicker than your original plan. Be happy for these little detours that work in your favor, because that won't always be the case. 

Upon arrival into Filadelfia, wait about 30 minutes and a bus to Nicoya will swing by and take you further south. Arriving in Nicoya, it gets a little trickier. Multiple bus stations means you need to walk quickly for 5 blocks in order to catch the 2pm bus to Playa Sámara. With some effort, you can make it just as the bus is backing out, but you will have to stand in the backdoor with your pack, trying not to knock other people over. Not as fun as it sounds but eventually you will get a seat and enjoy the view as the jungle gets thicker. 

Sámara is a fairly small town that used to be much smaller. Word has gotten out about the lovely beach and now many expats live here. They have opened lots of little cafes and sandwich shops. For lodgings, head down the road that parallels the beach and stay at Casa Valeria. A locally owned spot and right on the water, they have a few wooden cabin type accommodations surrounding a sandy courtyard with a shower and hammocks. The best value is the $30/night room by itself above the office. You can see the water through the palm trees while sitting in bed and the crashing surf and breeze will help you sleep at night. For food the first night, Lo Que Hay is worth a visit for their amazing tacos. They may be a bit expensive and gringo orientated, but you will consider them some of the best you have ever had. 

Wednesday you will get to see the beach at low tide, which is quite different. The water is 40 meters further away and the steep rough sandy bank becomes a flat smooth sand field. A thin layer of water is constantly returning to the sea from the shore and walking is a breeze. The reef connects with the rocky headland to the right and snorkeling is possible. The water is still not very clear and the reef is very damaged, but there are a few fish to be seen. You will just have to put up with the French guy who runs at you with mask in hand asking to join you. He won't be too much of a bother and will leave after a short swim. 

                                                Low tide at Playa Sámara

The rest of your day will be as follows; lunch at an American owned sandwich shop because you can't find anything else, ice cream from the super market, daytime drinking from the $4 jug of sangria, reasonably priced sushi for dinner, and an early bedtime. 

Thursday is the day to walk down the left side of the beach to the other rocky headland. Your goal will be the island that you hope will be accessable during low tide. It won't be, but the walk is good and the tide pools will show you some interesting things, like a scared black & blue fish waiting for the tide to come back in. 

                                           The island that is just out of reach

                                                     Cool looking fish

For lunch that day, you will continue to be frustrated at the lack of local kitchens and will settle for a small cafe that serves paninis. That frustration will lead you to buy avocados and tortillas from the big grocery store where the kid at the register angrily gives you 1,000 colones in 50 cent pieces because you lie to him and say you don't have a bill smaller than 10,000 to pay the 990 bill. It is an awkward moment and now you have 5 lbs worth of coins to try and spend. It will all work out in the end when later that night you brave the thunderstorm to buy 3 steak and chicken kabobs from the guy on the street, take them back home, and make yourself some sweet tacos with the avocado and tortillas. You have made your own cheap eats despite the fact the hotel's kitchen is closed for repairs. The ridiculously loud thunder and bright lightening storm view from your window will be amazing dinner entertainment. Sleep proudly. 

                                               How to buy dinner in the rain

                                                             This could be yours

Friday is a day to do whatever your heart desires. A good recomendation is to head back to the snorkeling grounds to the right and try to go out further. The water gets deeper and the reef gets bigger and a little healthier. One decent spot will show you the best fish you have seen in months but the visibility just ain't what it is in the Caribbean. The highlight of the day will be getting to try the local lunch spot you finally discovered using the Internet. Cevichero Colochos has amazing reviews and is well hidden down a dirt trail behind a super market. Owned by a local family that used to sell their ceviche on the street, they done rose up and bought a shop and now are the best place to get local food. The ceviche pescado is great and the typical casado plates are big and fairly priced. For those who are flush with cash, they even do a traditional paella with lobster tails that can feed a family. The only downside is that you came upon this place on your last full day in town. After playing in the waves while the sun goes down, enjoy another 3 kabob homemade taco dinner and finish that jug of sangria, because you will need it to make juice in later. 

                        Casado Bistek

Thus concludes your time on the northern beaches on Costa Rica. You will most certainly be satisfied with your 7 days near the water but will now look forward to the central highlands. Saturday, buses will take you straight inland to the popular Quaker settlement of Monteverde, where the tourists draws are cloud forests and cheese. Enjoy!